Monday, June 8, 2009

All by my lonesome

Anyone who's climbed with me at Seismic (aka Maggie's Wall) on the Barton Creek Greenbelt has undoubtedly heard me say "someday" while gazing up at Lonesome Dove, the horizontal roof finish to Diving for Rocks. Well that day was yesterday. Here's the story in pictures (click for bigger pics).

The crux for Diving for Rocks involves a pretty dynamic movement. On the shorter end of 5'8", I can comfortably deadpoint it. Most people straight up dyno; few people hit it completely statically.


(a) thinking about it (b) going for it (c) sticking it!


My pull up strength is pretty good. When it comes to climbing, I usually play up my strengths and downplay my weaknesses.


(a) feet come off (b) campus-ing! (c) setting feet again


I didn't actually lead the climb, my friend Tyler did. So I had to clean the route.


(a) getting set on the ledge (b) flagging so I can reach better (c) got it!


Eventually, I make my way to the sport chains indicating the finish of Diving for Rocks. Now it's on to Lonesome Dove, the completely horizontal roof. Unfortunately, my friend Steve didn't get any pictures of me transitioning from vertical to horizontal... that's the trickiest part. Actually he probably did, but didn't want to embarrass me by showing how awkward (and scared) I looked doing the move! :)


Getting setup. That foot cam / heel hook is critical.


Clipping the other sport anchor (Tyler only got one in before me), and smiling for the camera!


Checking out the view.


My reward for a job well done. I poured 91% isopropyl alcohol into it. Involuntary noises followed.


And that's that. The climb is more mental than physical/technical once you figure out the beta. It's super fun though. Guess it's time for the red point (I've already red pointed Diving, just not Lonesome).

Many thanks to Steve for taking the pictures and his wife Beth for giving me a fantastic belay. Also to Tyler for being such a great climbing partner and encouraging me to actually do it (and for setting the TR with no prior practice or beta, nice!).

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