I went on a "climbing trip" this weekend. It was to Reimers Ranch Sat/Sun with camping at Pace Bend on Sat night.
I had been reading a lot about training for climbing (particularly mental training), so I definitely had an agenda for the weekend. I didn't want to top rope anything and on-sight as much as possible.
The Hit List
Not counting my warmups (which were some 5.9 on-sight attempts), here is my hit list (ratings from the Austin Rock guidebook)...
- Dead Cats Don't Meow - 5.10c - on-sight attempt
- Hello Kitty - 5.10a - on-sight attempt
- Riemerama - 5.10a - on-sight attempt
- T-Roofic - 5.10d - redpoint attempt
- Hairlipped Dog - 5.10b - redpoint attempt
- Water Ballet - 5.10c - on-sight attempt
- Prototype - 5.10c - redpoint attempt
- Wife in the Fast Lane - 5.10d - lead attempt
Though I botched every on-sight and redpoint attempt, I never failed any climb and I can honestly say, I did the best climbing of my life.
On Motivation and Pride
The book I'm reading (I'll refer to the author as my mentor) about mental training for climbing really has you examine your motivation and challenges you to define your self-image and self-worth outside the social norm of performance or comparative based achievement.
I'm not going to lie, I was bursting with pride that I was putting up the routes for my group... that the people following couldn't finish the route or needed the beta that I discovered while attempting to on-sight.
It's a good feeling for sure, but my mentor would say using that for motivation is drawing from a shallow well. If you base your self-image or self-worth (they are two different things, read the book) on performance or comparison based achievements, then you're just setting yourself up for a crash which will result in a destructive downward spiral.
So I found myself asking what drives me. Is it that my friends rely on me to put the route up? Praise me for putting up the route? Expect me to put the route up? That is the reason I'm most afraid of. I don't believe anyone should ever be motivated by other people's expectations.
I really am an introvert thus why I'm fascinated with this book which really is about self-discovery and introspection to unlock your potential.
On-Sighting
Wow. Just like lead climbing is on a whole other level from top roping, on-sighting is again on a whole other level. On-sighting is lead climbing a route that you have never seen before, nor have any beta about. Oh and you can't rest on protection or fall.
I don't really know how to describe it other than climbing into the unknown. You have no idea where, when or if rest spots are coming up. Sometimes you see a hold a couple of moves away, but have no idea if it's good or not. Sometimes you simply climb yourself into a dead end. Instead of being told where to go and what to do, you have to make the decisions on your own. Sometimes these decisions can put you in a precarious position which might lead to a fall. Still, you have to make these decisions... and quickly or you risk pumping out.
Often times, I found myself eyeing a hold 2 moves away, but not having the nerve to go for it. I was afraid that the two moves would tire me out, then I wouldn't have enough energy to hold on to it if it turned out to be bad. I would do one move, then chicken out. Then go up again and look around for a bigger more obvious hold, not find one then come down. By this time, I'd be pumped out and have to rest on my protection... and that's how I'd blow all my on-sight attempts.
My Project
I have attempted on Wife on the Fast Lane (5.10d) 3 times before on top rope and failed every single time. I decided to attempt to lead it as my last climb of the weekend.
This climb is at the limit of my ability. It took everything in me (mentally and physically) to finish it.
One huge mental block I had to get through was expectation of failure based on my previous unsuccessful top rope attempts. If I couldn't finish it on top rope, how the hell could I finish it on lead??
The next mental block was fear. I had a very hard time controlling my fear while clipping the anchors. I knew it was a hard climb for me so my brain kept telling me that I was too tired or not strong enough to hold with one hand while clipping the protection. Also, I was scared to climb above my protection. With the expectation of failure, I didn't want it to happen while I was above my protection.
I fought through it though and finished. Partially because I didn't want to leave booty on the wall, partial because I asked a cute girl to come check on me and finish the route if I couldn't (then decided that I didn't want her to see me fail). Now I'm back to questioning my motivation.
Rope Gun
The guy or gal that leads all the routes, setting up the top rope for the other climbers.
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